The weather in October can vary considerably depending on where you are in Greece and if you are lucky or not. Rainy days are more common in the north and the west, but every town in Greece is guaranteed to see at least some rain. Athens and Thessaloniki average around 8 rainy days in October. Crete and the Cycladic islands have the least rain and are generally quite pleasant. If you are exploring the mountains in the center or the north of the country you might see more.

Temperatures in October

Daytime temperatures in October are usually still very pleasant. As I write this on the 5th of October Athens was sunny with a top temperature of 28 degrees centigrade. The rest of the week is expected to continue much the same with average temperatures in the mid to high 20s and mainly sunny. Thessaloniki is looking much the same with average temperatures 2-3 degrees cooler than in Athens. Temperatures at the end of the month are usually lower, but good sunny weather can also carry on into November with only occasional days of rain and cooler temperatures.

Can I swim in Greece in October? Yes you can! As long as you don’t mind a bit of a shock when you first get in, the seas still have some warmth in them. Don’t feel intimidated if you are the only one actually stripping off at the beach, a quick swim is just the way to tighten that skin and freshen up.

Nights can be chilly, but it is still the common to sit outside for a drink, although eating might be done inside once the sun goes down. The further south you go the warmer the nights are, but you will always need a sweater and light jacket to keep warm no matter where you are in Greece. In the mountains the nights are usually still colder, although most of you planning on hitting the mountains probably already know that.

October Festivals

The main public event in October is Oxi (No) Day, the 28th of October, which commemorates the day that Ioannis Metaxa said ‘no’ to an Italian demand to march unopposed into Greece in 1940. His response triggered Greece’s entry into World War II on the Allied side and Greece’s fierce resistance against first Italy and then a Nazi occupation is rightly a source of national pride.

Main towns have parades on Oxi Day which can be quite a lot of fun. School kids get very excited about the Oxi day parades when they get to march around in front of their parents and everyone else. Military parades also occur in the larger cities. The day is considered a public holiday and all state and most private offices are closed. In tourist areas shops and restaurants might shut for half a day so their owners can go watch their kids march, but most have reopened by the late afternoon.

Free Athens Beaches

Let’s start with the public access beaches. The truth is that there are many public access beaches all the way around the Attica coast. If you have access to a car then you can just go for a drive following any road out of Athens be it south past the organised beaches of Vouliagmeni and Varkiza and on towards Cape Sounio or out to the east towards the beaches at Marathonas or Porto Rafti. Otherwise buses or taxis will get you to most of the main beaches of Attica with minimal fuss.

Schinias Beach, Marathonas

Schinias beach is a long, sandy beach on the northern edges of Marathon Bay backed by a famous strand of pine forest. About 45kms from Athens, it is free to access, but there are areas of sun beds and umbrellas for those that wish to pay the rental fee (9 euros as of summer 2009). The truth is that all of the coast along Marathon Bay is basically one long beach, and most areas have some sort of facilities available for those that want to use them.

Getting there
Orange KTEL buses run from the Pedio of Areos in central Athens five times a day starting at 7:30 am and finishing at 6pm. They stop at th Ampelokipi and Ethniki Amyna metro stations on their way out to Marathonas. Last bus back leaves Marathonas at 8:30p.

Sounio Beach, Cape Sounio

A small, sandy beach just a few hundred meters from the Temple of Poseidon and 70kms from Athens, Cape Sounio can get pretty crowded in the summertime. It is in a protected cove and has a couple of decent fish tavernas on it, along with a pretty hideous looking hotel which also offers sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. If you are going to be seeing the Temple of Poseidon anyway, this is the beach to cool off at.

Getting there
Orange KTEL buses run every hour on the half hour from the Pedio tou Areos in central Athens. The journey takes about an hour and a half.

Legrena Beach, Legrena

A nice, long, sandy beach about 3kms west of Cape Sounio, Legrena Beach is well protected from the northern winds and offers a more isolated feel than most Attica beaches. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t get crowded occasionally on the weekends, and there is no shade to speak of, so bring your own umbrella. There are a couple of fish tavernas in the area.

Getting there
The same orange KTEL buses mentioned above that run from the Pedio tou Areos to Sounio also pass by Legrena beach.

Organised Athens Beaches

The organised beaches in Athens tend to be clustered along the western edge of Attika in the areas of Glyfada, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. This doesn’t mean you won’t find organised beaches elsewhere, just that the ones in eastern and southern Attica usually have some sort of free access also, so you can choose to pay for your sun bed and umbrella or not as you see fit. Some of the best and well known organised beaches in Athens are the Astir beach in Vouliagmeni, Yabanaki beach in Varkizi and Akti tou Iliou in Alimos, which is only a short trip from Syntagma square in central Athens.

Astir Beach, Vouliagmeni

Astir Beach is a long, sandy beach about 20kms from the center of Athens in the southern suburb of Vouliagmeni. It is an organised beach with umbrellas, sun beds, showers and other facilities and the services are generally all of high quality. The entrance fee is also ‘quality’, an eye popping 15 euros for adults and 8 euros for kids up to 12 on the weekdays, which moves to 25 euros and 13 euros respectively on the weekends. Open from 8am to 9pm Astir Beach is blue flagged and is considered one of Athens’ best beaches. If you can get your head around the entrance fees it is probably worth a shot.

Getting there
Bus number 114 from Glyfada will get you there, reached by taking the E22 from central Athens or the G1 from Pireaus. A taxi ride from central Athens will set you back about 10 euros.

Yabanaki Beach, Varkiza

Another long, sandy beach on Athens’ southeast coast; fully organised with shallow waters that are suitable for all age groups. Yabanaki is about 30kms from the city center and has facilities covering everything you could need: sun beds, umbrellas, watersports and other activities, even yoga, pilates and cooking classes at the ‘Ladies Place’! Entrance is 7 euros on weekdays, 8 euros on the weekends.

Getting there
Bus E22 from Athens, the G1 from Pireaus, and 115, 116 and 149 from Glyfada. You can also get bus number 125 from the Ethniki Amyna metro station and orange KTEL buses leave from the Pedio tou Areos passing by Syntagma square on their way south. A taxi trip from central Athens will cost 10-15 euros.

Akti tou Iliou, Alimos

Akti to Iliou is the beach most easily accessed from the center of Athens, although the waters are not a clear as some of the beaches further south towards Vouliagmeni. There are three canteens serving drinks and snacks, a kiosk and optional (extra cost) sun beds. Entrance is 6 euros weekdays, 8 euros weekends, although there is a small section on the right that has free access.

Getting there
The easiest option is the Kalamaki tram stop on the line to Voula. Buses E22, A2 and B2 from Athens also pass by, as do the 101 and E1 from Pireaus. A taxi ride from the center of town should be closer to 5 euros than 10.

OK, you’ve found the Mercouri Estate on the Peloponnese, Western Greece. Congratulations! Now what?

Well you’ve arrived at the second oldest estate in Greece, with a history stretching back almost one and a half centuries. In the olden days the estate was well known for the production of Corinthian currants as well as for the cultivation of the vine and the olive tree. Today, pressed currants go into one of our dessert wines, while we still produce olive oil and high quality wines.

Visiting the Mercouri Estate

But there is more to the Mercouri Estate than the products. There is the location – sitting on the plateau of the Icthis peninsula where wine has been produced for thousands of years. There are the buildings – the original family residence that looks straight from a film set, the small private church which is really only big enough for the priest and his beard, the old stable block that now houses a collection of artifacts from the estate and the surrounding region, and finally the main facility itself where the wine is made and aged, the bottles are filled and the labels added. Oh and did I mention our mega-store? No? That’s because we don’t have one. You are able to sample our products and if you like what you’ve tasted, you can buy wines and olive oil at special prices. Last and not least are the animals – more peacocks than you can shake a stick at, some St Bernard dogs (including the resident star, Lara), cats and kittens, geese, tortoises and a goat.

There’s lots more here, so the best way to check that I am not lying is to come and visit for yourself. We’re located at 37.6767 N, 21.3095 E, or for those who are technologically challenged, we’re 32km from Ancient Olympia, on the outskirts of the village of Korakochori. We’re open 6 days a week (Mon-Sat) – 7 days if you are really rich and we think you’ll buy lots of wine (only kidding) – from 9am until about 3pm (hey, it’s Greece, approximate is where it’s at).

The Mercouri wines

The highlights as far as the wines are concerned? Well that all depends on what you like – but by common consent from the reds, the Domaine Mercouri Cava is excellent and well worth shelling out on, and from the whites, the Foloi is a light, crisp dry wine that is bursting with character. In total there are 8 dry wines produced – 3 reds, 4 whites and 1 rosé. If you like what the Aussies call “stickies” then there are two dessert wines that are worth investigating in a moment of indulgence. And as a last-minute gift for that favourite Auntie, the extra virgin olive oil comes in handy little 500ml bottles.

What else do you need to know? Katakolon (2km away) has restaurants and accommodation. Levendohori (2km away) has some nice tavernas and Olympia has more to offer than just the ruins and the archaeological museum.

Contact details:

tel: 0030 26210 41601, www.mercouri.gr, mercouri@otenet.gr

Ordering Mercouri wines online

Wanted to take back a case but the ship only lets in a couple of bottles?
A solution for our American visitors is now at hand!

The Artisian Wine Depot in Mountain View, California stocks the whites Foloi (our favorite!) and Kallisto and will send to most US addresses.

For those on the East coast even more of a choice!
Saratoga Wines in New York state have a great selection including Antares, Cava, Kallisto and our favorite Foloi!


Click the the bottle on the left to check out their selection, we get a small commission, so thanks for the support and enjoy the wine!

Travel times in Northern Greece cut in half!!

While there are a few small sections where construction is still taking place, the official opening took place on May 30th 2009 and reported travelling times between northern Greece’s main cities have been dramatically slashed. Indicitive times include:

Alexandroupoli – Igoumenitsa (was 11 hours 30 minutes, now 6 hours 10 minutes)
Ioannina – Thessaloniki (was 5 hours, now 2 hours 15 minutes)
Thessaloniki – Kavala (was 2 hours 15 minutes, now 1 hour 15 minutes)
Thessaloniki – Grevena (was 4 hours now 1 hour 30 minutes)
Igoumenitsa – Ioannina (was 1 hour 45 minutes, now only 45 minutes)

The greek press reports that tolls will not be installed until the autumn of 2009, so now is the time to go try out the new highway and see some of northern Greece’s natural charms quickly and cheaply! I can’t wait to get the time to go up and have a look for myself!

Egnatia Odos update summer 2011

We finally managed to get up and drive this beautiful area of Greece on a trip through Northern Greece up to the Bulgarian Black Sea shores! How was the Egnatia Route? Wonderful!

We will post some new reports on the drive and our stays in the northern towns of Didimoteicho and Soufli, but in the meantime the lowdown on Thessaloniki to Alexendroupouli is that the tolls are still not operating (that cannot last much longer). The road is fanatastic, two lane divided highway all the way with very little traffic in comparison to the rest of Greece, very relaxed driving. One thing to be careful of: much like the Roman times, there are only periodic exits and NO (not one) road side service stations. So be sure to fill up in time and if you decided to go off road for a bit, bear in mind that you might have to drive quite a few kilometers along the side of the Egnatia before you find another entry point. Enjoy the great driving!

The Museum of Ancient Greek Technology in Katakolon operates under the auspices of the Municipality of Pyrgos and includes approximately 200 reliably operating models of mechanisms and inventions of the ancient Greek wonder after research, study and construction by Kostas Kotsanas. It is the most reliable and plenary exhibition of its kind in the world.

The exhibits are accompanied by rich audio-visual material such as, explanatory labels and giant posters with opulent information, analytical diagrams, photos and complete bibliographical references (in both Greek and English) while some of the exhibits are interactive. There are projecting stations with video and animation as well as documentaries in which the exhibitor explains the function and the use of the mechanisms. The exhibition (categorized in thematic units) follows the modern educational perception in Pedagogic and Museum Education so that it acts multi-leveled as far as the greatness of ancient Greek technological thought and technique are concerned, not only for all rungs of the educational community but also the wider public.

Many of the exhibits and study on which the constructions are based have been presented at international conventions and exhibitions, while periodic exhibitions of the museum have been realized in both Greece and abroad.

The aim of the exhibition is to familiarize the public with the unbelievable technological achievements of the ancient Greeks giving the visitor the opportunity to discover that the ancient Greeks had:

1. invented a “cinema” capable of presenting, automatically, the plot of a myth with moving picture and sound
2. devised (unfortunately, only as entertainment) automotive vehicles (automobiles) with automatic drive, a gear box, hydraulic programmed valves and other complex components
3. used operating robots with the purpose of serving them
4. invented the beginning of the steam engine
5. used complex yet accurate measuring instruments which permitted them to calculate the diameter of the Earth and the Sun-Earth distance or even to open up tunnels, kilometers long from both sides of a mountain
6. conceived ingenious slot machines
7. used complex elevating mechanisms to build extremely high constructions with only minimal manpower
8. had automatic clocks (and alarm clocks) which worked without interruption or human interference, etc.

Furthermore, this exhibition is another opportunity to vitiate the false views of some researchers about the allegedly lacking “technophilia” of the ancient Greeks and their abhorrence towards the “brutal” skills. For example, how surprised one feels when learning that the “aeolosphere” of Heron with the addition of a pulley, for the driving motion, (by one of his students or himself) would have led (if the political, economical and social conditions of the time and the intervention of the allegedly “practical” Romans had allowed) to the Industrial Revolution, 1500 years earlier, with unpredictable consequences for humanity.

The museum exhibits are categorized in units and the tour includes

1. the unit with 27 ancient Greek clocks where the clock of Ctesibius (a hydraulic wonder) prevails
2. the unit with the amazing “magical” automatics of the Alexandrian engineers and the imposing human size “automatic maid”, the first operating robot in history
3. the unit with static and mobile automatic theatres of Heron (the “television” and the automatic “puppet theatre” of the ancient Greeks, respectively)
4. the unit with the inventions of Archimedes (the most significant scientist of all ages)
5. the unit with the impressive telecommunication of the ancient Greeks as well as their cryptographic methods
6. the unit with the ancient Greek agricultural, textile and athletic technology with the impressive “loom of Penelope” and the “hysplex”, i.e. the starting mechanism which prevented the false start of the athletes (both in actual size)
7. the unit with the construction methods of the ancient Greek architectural wonder where each type of crane is most impressive
8. the unit with the ancillary mechanisms of the ancient Greek theatre (”Deus ex machine”, “rotating prismatic constructions”, etc.)
9. the unit with the measuring instruments, tools and machines of the ancient Greeks
10. the unit with their hydraulic and agricultural technology
11. the unit with the ancient Greek siege technology (their “armored vehicles” and “artillery”) such as, the helepolis of Epimachos, the tortoise and borer of Diades, the polybolos catapult of Dionysius, etc.
12. the unit with the ancient Greek nautical technology where the historical evolution of the Greek ship is presented (e.g. the dugout boat, the papyrella, the holkas, the pentecounter, the bireme, the trireme, etc.).

More information is available at www.kotsanas.com. If you dont have enough time to make Olympia or if you just want to hang around Katakolon go check them out, and drop us a line with your thoughts!

The official bus guide highlights 3 suggested walks as well as all the points of interest throughout the route. A good place to find the guide would be the GNTO information office at 136 Tsimiski Str. (Behind the YMCA building and next to the TIMES café-bar).

The bus starts and stops its route opposite the Thessaloniki’s historic White Tower.
Click here to browse nearby hotels at booking.com

Thessaloniki Cultural Route Bus Stops and Sights

The bus makes 16 official stops from which you can explore 43 points of interest.

The official stops are:

1. The White Tower (which is also the start/end point for the route)
2. Museums – including the Archeological Museum of Thessaloniki
3. The Palace of Galerius – Esperos
4. The Church of Agia Sofia
5. Aristotelous Square
6. Thessaloniki Town Hall
7. Dioikitirio (the government house built in 1891)
8. Agios Dimitrios
9. Koule Kafe
10. Taxiarchon (the heart of the Old City)
11. Upper City – Keladis
12. Trigonia Tower – Ag. Anargyroi (with the 4th century AD Byzantine fortification walls)
13. Vlatadon Monastary – Platanos
14. Pasha Gardens – Agios Pavlos
15. Eastern Walls – Hospital
16. Rotunda – University

The 43 points of interest that you can visit are:

1. White Tower
2. Society of Macedonian Studies
3. Archaeological Museum
4. Museum of Byzantine Culture
5. Thessaloniki Christian Youth Brotherhood (YMCA)
6. HELEXPO & Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art
7. Ippodromiou Square
8. Navarinou Square
9. Church of Agia Sofia
10. Museum of The Macedonian Struggle
11. Aristotelous Square
12. Ladadika
13. Port – Warehouses – Cinema Museum – Thessaloniki Museum of Photography
14. Modiano Market – Louloudadika
15. Skepasti Agora (Bezesteni)
16. Alkazar
17. Church of Panagia Halkeon
18. Diikitirio – Diikitiriou Square
19. Ancient Agora
20. Ancient Baths – Bei Hamam
21. Tsinari
22. Church if Agios Dimitrios (and catacomb)
23. Aigli – Geni Hamam
24. Alatza Imaret
25. Church of Panagia Lagoudianis
26. Koule Kafe
27. Church of Profiti Ilia
28. Church of Osios David
29. Church of Taxiarches
30. Old City
31. Byzantine Walls
32. Trigonio Tower
33. Eptapyrgio
34. Vlatadon Monastery
35. Pasha Gardens
36. Eastern Walls
37. Church of Agios Nikolaos Orfanos
38. University – School of Philosophy
39. Rotonda
40. Arch of Galerius
41. Church of Agios Panteleimo
42. Church of Panagia Dexia
43. Fountain

Bus No. 50 Tickets & Timetable

The price of the ticket is just 2 euros (1 euro concessions). The ticket is valid for 24 hours and during this period it can also be used for unlimited trips (hop on and hop off wherever you like). When the ticket is bought from an OASTH ticket office it has to be validated on the Cultural Route Bus. Other travel and unlimited journey cards are not valid on this route.

Thessaloniki’s Cultural Route Bus, not just for tourists!

Walking the town has always been a favourite pastime for locals and visitors alike, but this bus makes it easier to reach the northern city areas which are a considerable hike uphill and to see more sites in a shorter time. Bus No 50, although it is painted a pretty light blue, is not a tourist designated bus, so be prepared to mingle with the locals!

Thessaloniki Bus No. 50 Map – click here for a printable pdf version.

The line (officially the number 400 Athens public bus) starts and ends at the Athens Archaeological Museum on Vas. Irakleiou Street (to the left of the museum as you look at the entrance). The route has 20 official stops which include all the major sites of central Athens, several of the most important museums and of course shopping areas for those must have gifts to take back home with you. The complete list of the stops is:

1. NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
2. OMONIA
3. PSYRRI
4. KERAMEIKOS
5. THISSIO
6. MONASTIRAKI
7. MARKET (VARVAKEIOS AGORA)
8. KLAFTHMONOS SQUARE
9. SYNTAGMA
10. BENAKI MUSEUM
11. NATIONAL GALLERY
12. AMPELOKIPI
13. NATIONAL GALLERY
14. PANATHINAIKON STADIUM
15. PLAKA
16. AKROPOLI
17. OLYMPIC ZEUS TEMPLE
18. GREEK PARLIAMENT (VOULI TON ELLINON
19. UNIVERSITY (PANEPISTIMIO)
20. OMONIA

Athens sightseeing bus schedule

The sightseeing bus runs throughout the year with the following schedule, a round trip takes approximately 80-90 minutes.

Athens sightseeing by public bus, good for locals too!

The truth is that we have used this bus more than once to show visiting friends around town without the hassle of parking the car or popping in and out of metro stations all day. For 5 euros the deal really can’t be beat. Be forewarned though, this bus is a normal everyday city bus, not red, not a double decker, not anything like the famous hop-on hop-off buses doing the rounds of central London. What you get here is a cheap affordable way to get to most of the main sites of central Athens in one easy(ish) to do trip. For those interested in it, the Athens sightseeing bus company (or something like that) has imported a few of those lovely red double deckers, they do more or less the same route, and it will only set you back 18 euros for the 90 minutes it takes to complete. Bit too steep for my liking, but to each their own.

Athens Sightseeing Bus Map – click here for a printable pdf version.

• Rent a car in Katakolon
• Katakolon to Olympia by Taxi
• Katakolon to Olympia by Train
• Katakolon Beach
• Agios Andreas Beach
• Day trips from Katakolon
• Detailed map of Katakolon

Katakolon then and now

Katakolon has always been a port town, with its original heyday being the end of the 19^th to the mid 20^th century when it was the main point of departure for the region’s famous raisons. The Pirgos – Katakolon rail link was completed in 1881, a full 10 years before the Greek state railway line between Athens and Lamia was constructed. Katakolo’s port was funded entirely by the local Pirgos authorities to facilitate the transport of finished raisons to the ships at Katakolon where they were shipped to all the major ports of Europe. The Katakolon of those days can still be seen in the old warehouse buildings along its back streets, some of which have been nicely restored.

That being said, the first time I went to Katakolon in 1997 my first impressions were not particularly warm. The town had a bit of a rundown feeling to it, some of its older buildings along the back roads were in complete disrepair and the general feeling was one of a place that was on its last legs, port or no port, Olympia or no Olympia.

Since 2003 however, Katakolo has undergone a surprising and very pleasing makeover. The port was renovated in that year with funds donated by the town’s most famous of sons, John Latsis. With the renovated port came more cruise ships with more tourist dollars and in a surprisingly short time Katakolon has become a much nicer place to hang out in with most of its old buildings lovingly restored, the cafes and tavernas along the waterfront full of smiling people and its relaxed bars pulling in the locals from Pirgos on the weekends. Our last visit in the summer of 2010 was to a town that had rediscovered its summer vigour and was a bustling hive of activity during the day and a relaxing oasis of calm in the evenings (well, except for the weekend evenings).

Katakolon to Olympia

Many of you reading this might well be coming on a cruise ship, and maybe you will want to know if there are any options for getting from Katakolon to Olympia which does not involve the official cruise ship tour (something I have been asked by more than one lost looking soul wandering down the beach). Well, the short answer is yes, there are, although walking is not one of them. If you are adventurous you could rent a car from one of the car rental agencies and drive yourself. The roads from Katakolon to Olympia are in good condition and hold no major surprises although it is possible to get slightly lost when passing through Pirgos since the signs are a bit vague in places. That being said, if you follow the signs and/or all the taxis and tour buses that will be going the same way you will be hard pressed not to end up in Olympia eventually. If you are considering the DIY driving route take into account the complete chaos that is called parking in Olympia. They have recently closed the main road to thru traffic meaning that you will need to park at the far end of town (while battling through the waiting busses and taxis parked all along the main road) and then walk the entire length of Olympia to get to the site. It is not that far, say 15-20 minutes normal walking, but the summer heat and the bus and taxi fumes can make that seem like a pretty long 15 minutes.

Renting a car in Katakolon

With the uncertainty surrounding the Katakolon – Olympia train (see below) renting a car is an economical way to get to Olympia for small groups. It has the added bonus of freeing you completely from taxi or organised tour schedules so you can easily check out the Mercouri Winery, the lovely little beach at Agios Andreas and generally snoop about the area to your heart’s content. The driving around Katakolon is really pretty laid back by Greek standards, so if you are even somewhat confident behind the wheel, I really don’t think you will have any problems. There are a number of small car rental places just to the right off the pier as you enter Katakolon. The only one we could find offering online bookings is Avis. To check out their rates just click the Avis image above right and put Katakalo (note no N at the end, and you do want Katakolo Hlias) into the search field. Car seats for the little ones are available for those who need them. We get a small commission for rentals through these links, so thanks for the support!

Katakolon to Olympia by Taxi

The Katakolon to Olympia route has become the biggest business in town for any taxi driver based within 50kms of Katakolon. It amazes me every time I pass by the port once the last cruise ship has left for the day to see at least 50 new Mercedes taxis all parked up waiting for the next day when the cruise ship gods will offer up their next spoils to the lucky natives. Now, perhaps I shouldn’t be so cynical, and I have no doubt that most of the taxi drivers are good honest people who will offer you a great trip to and from Olympia. They will stop at a couple of picturesque spots along the way, they will tell you tales about the area and about Greece generally that you would never hear otherwise and generally you will have a good time. The only problem according to my local friends is the completely exorbitant rates that some will try pass onto the unsuspecting customer. Call me conservative, but 150+ euros for a 3-4 hour trip where 2 of these hours involves our friendly taxi driver sitting around with his mates smoking and laughing while you see the sights of Ancient Olympia seems a bit steep. Now if you have lots of spare cash, hey, why not share the wealth a little, take a taxi, enjoy the trip and think no more about it. If you are looking for a more wallet friendly option read on!

Train from Katakolon to Olympia

Remember that train line from Katakolon to Pirgos? Well it is back up and running! Having been defunct for the better part of 20 years, I can honestly say that I never really expected to see it back in operation again, but in operation it is and not only will it take you to Pirgos, it will take you all the way to Olympia. If that is not good enough news, it will do this for you in ultra modern, air conditioned carriages for the princely sum of 3.20 euros return per person (kids under 12 travel free I believe). This has got to be one of the best deals in Greece! I am told you can buy a discounted ticket to the Ancient Olympia site along with your train ticket, so to me this deal seems pretty much a no brainer.

The train station is a 10-15 minute walk down the Katakolon sea front from the main pier, just look for where the tracks end, the platforms next to that point is where you catch the train. As of 2010 the miniature ticket office has been refurbished and is open for tickets (obviously) and other information. The train drops you into the center of Olympia where another 10-15 minutes or so walk will get you to the main archeological site. The train runs 4-5 times a day, although only 3 of these are going to be of use to those of you needing to get to and from a cruise ship. The last run from Olympia to Katakolon leaves around 16:30pm and the journey takes about 45-60 minutes depending on if the train is an express or not.

Update September 26 2011
It appears that rumours of the trains’s demise are not 100% true. Latest seems to be that the trains are now run according to the cruise ship schedules but that in some cases they may be cancelled unexpectedly. See the latest comments from Maurice, Kate and Kath at the bottom of the page for more details.

Note that you can also get the 3384 Katakolon – Pirgos train at 12:11 which will drop you in Pirgos at 12:30 and then quickly change to the 1384 at 12:35 for Pirgos to Olympia

Note that you can also get the 1385 Olympia – Pirogos train at 13:08 which will drop you in Pirgos at 13:36 and then quickly change to the 3385 at 13:38 for Pirgos to Katakolon

Katakolon Beach

Well, you say, all this Olympia stuff is fine, but I have been there, done that, or maybe you just are not up to another slog around an ancient site and just want to relax for a while, what are the best options then? Well, first of all, I would say don’t miss ancient Olympia if you are only in Katakolon for one day and will never be coming back. Yes it gets hellishly crowded in the summertime and yes Olympia the town is a bit of a tourist trap (well, more than a bit), but at the end of the day ancient Olympia is an amazing site and the museum is top notch, so it is definitely worth your time to go and have a look. Not convinced? Ok, there are a couple of other options that Katakolon and its surrounds can offer you, starting with the beach.

Katakolon’s beach starts from the end of the town and stretches in one continuous arc around the huge Kyparissian Gulf for what must be at least 30kms. It is easy enough to walk to it from the port, or if you are inclined to go a little further then scooters can be rented from the same shops that rent cars at the end of the pier itself. Katakolo’s beach is nice enough, it has a couple of decent fish tavernas and beach bars at intervals along it and the waters are warm and shallow and perfect for small kids. The beach at Katakolon has 2 main problems: firstly, there are often jellyfish in the waters there and while they are not deadly, they can give you a itchy rash, and secondly, the powers that be have decided that the beach will make a great cut through route for a lot of the town’s car traffic, and therefore allow cars, buses and even trucks onto the beach(!). About the jellyfish there is not much one can do except be alert, they don’t move fast and are easy to see and avoid (blue/purple, the size of a medium to large plate), for the cars on the beach, feel free to mention to any local who wants to listen that you consider it a bit of a turn off to have vehicle fumes swirling around your head when you are going for a swim, who knows, maybe the anti-car brigade will eventually get enough members to put an end to this odd practice.

Reneta Beach

If you only have a short amount of time in Katakolon and you want a beach that is as close as possible to the port, then Reneta (also known as Plakes) Beach is just for you. Simply walk to the end of the pier, and head off to the left hand side of the parking lot. Just on the other side of the port wall is Renata beach, a small pebbly beach with a subdued beach bar and a few palm like umbrellas. The beach is nothing special, and if you are on a big ship it does not take many people to get full, but the waters are nice, and importantly seem to never have jellyfish unlike the beach at Katakolo. The hows and whats of jellyfish migration and why they show up in one spot and not another has been the subject of many a discussion, if anybody has a definitive answer please send us a mail! In the meantime, while Renata beach is a good enough option for a short visit, if you have anything more than a couple of hours, I would suggest the beach at Agios Andreas as your best bet by far.

Agios Andreas Beach

Literally a 5 minute drive from Katakolon is Agios Andreas, a microscopic village with a couple a small cafe/bar and two restaurants above a wonderful little beach. If you are driving yourself head straight out of Katakolon (there is only one road), take the first left you see of any consequence opposite the last of the shops of Katakolon and head up the hill. You will hit what looks like a T junction after a minute or two, turn left and a hundred meters down on your right is the Kastro (Το Κάστρο), a relaxed café from 10am to sunset and the hip place to be from sunset and beyond for the sophisticated Pirgos crowd.

The Kastro has a lovely relaxed atmosphere, it has nice green grass that the kids can play on and of course it has its own little beach where a coffee or a drink will also get you a lounger and an umbrella. Don’t like loungers and umbrellas? Well then feel free to head a little bit further down the beach and plop yourself under the rock overhangs or small bushes that line the sand. An outdoor shower is available and the prices for coffees, drinks and snacks are reasonable. All in all this is the place I would recommend to anyone wanting to pass a day of relaxing, swimming and doing not a lot of anything at all. The restaurant at Liris, about 50 meters past the Kastro also has a small beach under it, and is rightly known for its lovely mixed dishes served with beer or ouzo. Liris could be considered a slightly more sophisticated version of the Kastro, but both allow bathing suits and bare feet, so pick whichever suits best.

If you don’t want to rent a bike to get there then grab a taxi (but don’t pay the 50 euros I have heard mentioned in some conversations!). The truth is that any fit person could walk from Katakolon to Agios Andreas in about 30 minutes or so. There is also a bus from Katakolon to Agios Andreas which leaves from the bus stop opposite the kiosk at the end of the pier and drops you off pretty much at the entrance to the Kastro.

The summer 2011 Katakolon – Agios Andreas bus timetable looks something like this:
Katakolon to Agios Andreas at 13:00, 14:30, 15:45, 17:15 and 19:00;
Agios Andreas to Katakolon at 13:15, 14:45, 16:00, 17:30 and 19:15.

Day trips from Katakolon

All this is very nice you say, but I don’t want to go to Olympia, I don’t want to sit on the beach and I don’t want to sit around Katakolon all day drinking coffee. Are there other places to go in the surrounding areas that have something more to see and do? Well, if you are in the area for more than a day, or if you simply want to get a car or taxi and head somewhere off the main cruise itinerary then yes there are a few places I could recommend. How about Chlemoutsi Castle and the Thermal Baths at Kyllini? Or if you prefer something a bit more natural how about the beautiful Foloi Oak Forest which could be included in a trip to Olympia if time permits. If you enjoy nature there is also the Strofilia Forest and the adjacent Kalogria wetlands that are also about an hour from Katakolon. And of course, there is always the nearby Merkouri Winery where Chris will be happy to show you around and let you sample some of their lovely reds and whites! So there you have it, what to do in Katakolon for a day, or a week!

Ordering Mercouri wines online

Wanted to take back a case but the ship only lets in a couple of bottles? Seems to be a common complaint and we get many mails asking where you can get more bottles of your favorite tipple to remember your cruise with. Well, a solution for our American visitors is now at hand!

The Artisian Wine Depot in Mountain View, California stocks the whites Foloi (our favorite!) and Kallisto and will send to most US addresses.

For those on the East coast even more of a choice!
Saratoga Wines in New York state have a great selection including Antares, Cava, Kallisto and our favorite Foloi!


Click the the bottle on the left to check out their selection, we get a small commission, so thanks for the support and enjoy the wine!

Detailed map of Katakolon

View Katakolon, Greece – sightseeing spots of interest. in a larger map

Access to Dimitsana and the rest of the villages in the area (Stemnitsa, Vytina, Karataina etc) has become much easier in the last few years with the opening of a European grade highway taking you from Athens to Tripoli. There are a number of options from Tripoli: taking the main road just after the Artemision tunnel that leads through Levidi and Vytina or else carrying on into Tripoli and then taking the smaller roads that wind through the mountains up through Stemnitsa and on to Dimitsana. We decided on the second option which in hindsight might have been a mistake (did I mention the area can see a bit of snow?). We made it to the village of Chrisovitsi before the road was blocked by snow and other Athenians without snow chains having their own adventures in the cold. A big thanks to Christos and his mates from Chrisovitsi who helped all involved to get their chains attached and pushed them back up the hill on their way back to Tripoli, it was quite an experience! Needless to say, if you are heading to the mountains of Arkadia in the wintertime check the weather forecast and take your snow chains, the weather can change quickly and what is rain at 500 meters can in a very short amount of time turn into 15cm of snow a bit higher up.

Arriving in Dimitsana

All this extra excitement meant that we ended up approaching Dimitsana from the North instead of the South, something that is well worth it as the village suddenly appears above you as you come around a mountain bend. Dimitsana is built amphitheatrically on two adjacent hills over of the Lousios river and the first view of the stone houses wrapped in a light winter fog is quite simply amazing and gives a feeling of medieval Europe much more than of anything you usually associate with Greece. Once parked up (an adventure in itself during the weekends when the Athens mob makes itself most known) get yourself to your chosen rooms and then kick back with a nice hot rakomelo (raki and honey, the best winter drink ever) in any of the town’s little cafes. They are not hard to find, they are all on the main (and only) road that leads through Dimitsana.

Things to do in Dimitsana

Dimitsana was a commercial center in the 18th century and flourished during the years up to and including the Greek war of independence in 1821. Its position on the Lousios Gorge meant that water was available to power mills that were involved in the production of flour, animal skins, metal works and (most importantly) gunpowder. Without the gunpowder mills of Dimitsana (evidence suggests up to 14 operated in the village and surroundings) the Greek freedom fighters would have been doing a lot less fighting. The Lousios Gorge also hides a number of secluded monasteries along its walls that became centers of resistance and education during those years. A number of celebrated Greek resistance fighters and Patriarchs made their home in Dimitsana and/or the nearby monasteries and today Dimitsana is home to two small museums celebrating its illustrious past, the Ecclesiastical Museum and the Town Library.

Ecclesiastical Museum

Dimitsana’s own homegrown son is none other than Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople, Grigorios V. His house just off the main street has been restored and made into an Ecclesiastical museum holding treasures from the churches of Dimitsana and the surrounding monasteries. Most pieces are from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries and include a several representative sample of icons produced by seventeenth century artists in Crete. Take note, the museum is only open Saturday and Sunday in the winter time 09:30 – 13:30.

Dimitsana Town Library

The Dimitsana town library is housed opposite the church of Saint Kyriaki in the town’s extremely small main square. Inside it has a small but interesting folklore collection with various objects from everyday life of Dimitsana in the nineteenth century. There are also a number of more historically weighty objects including several artifacts from famous residents of DImitsana during the 1821 Greek war of Independence and a number of books from the 16th century that were commissioned by wealthy local residents to be translated from Latin to Greek and printed in Venice and other European cities.

The library was initially started with the books from the local monastery that had amassed over 5000 items before the War of Independence started. We are told that by the end of the war only 500 survived, not due to any wartime incident but because the pages were found to be perfect for wrapping the gunpowder produced at the local mills to be prepared for final use! The library is open Monday to Friday 09:30 – 13:30.

Wandering the Streets of Dimitsana

Beyond the two museums, you can spend an enjoyable day simply wandering around the cobblestoned streets of Dimitsana. There are a number of churches including the above mentioned Saint Kyriaki built in 1834 to replace a church of 1603, Saint George from the seventeenth century, St Haralambus from 1862 with an impressive clock tower dating from 1868, the Transfiguration at the north edge of the village believed to date from the eighteenth century and the Archangel standing on the foundations of an original church built in 1635.

Walking the path to the Transfiguration will also take you past the remains of ancient walls. The exact origin of these remains is unknown with some suggesting the Mycenaean and some the Hellenic periods. They are most likely from the ancient town of Teuthis which is known to have stood on the same spot as modern day Dimitsana.

The Open Air Water Power Museum

Just outside Dimitsana to the south is a small road leading down into the Lousios Gorge with a sign pointing you on to the Open Air Water Power Museum of Dimitsana. I was not expecting too much from this trip, but stood pleasantly surprised by the amount of care and attention to detail that has been put in restoring and recreating water powered mills fed from a spring that runs down the mountains to the Lousios river itself. The museum is a fantastic example of what can be achieved with a little care (and a little bit of funding) and is well worth a visit.

Day Trips from Dimitsana

Dimitsana is perfectly situated to be the base for a number of very enjoyable day trips around the wider area which could easily include visits to Stemnitsa (about 14 kms further south along a beautiful road that winds along the edge of the Lousios Gorge) and ancient Gortinia which is a further 10kms or so beyond that. Truth be told, all the roads in the region offer fantastic views down the Lousios gorge so if you have a car just get in and go, you will find many little villages, churches and scenic viewpoints that will keep you occupied all day long.

Hiking the Lousios Gorge

A path starting from the Open Air museum will lead you down into the Lousios Gorge itself and will take you past the Philosophou and Prodromou Monastaries. Although the snowfall and a slightly cranky two year old prevented us from attempting the walk on this trip, it is by all acounts a lovely hike and one I plan on doing some springtime soon. Reasonably priced leaflets and books detailing the trails are available from the museum kiosk. There are a few offices in Dimitsana that offer guided tours of the area and can also arrange rafting trips on the Lousios river if that is your thing.

Dimitsana – Final Thoughts

Dimitsana and the central Peleponnese generally is a great place to get your fill of beautiful mountain scenery and historical monuments. Anytime of the year is good, wintertime is most popular for the greeks, spring and autumn a mixture of greeks and foreign tourists in the know, in the summertime you might well be virtually alone with most of the country down at the beaches. Fully recommended.

Following from that, and on a topical note, the economic crisis of 2010 is hitting us hard here in Greece, and I am a firm believer that providing quality, good value services to tourists is an area that everyone in Greece should be interested in promoting and supporting as much as possible. Writing this blog means I often meet and discuss tourist related issues with various Greek tourist service providers.

Sometimes I am suitably impressed with someone’s business, vision, strategy or service that I feel that I should do what I can to help promote their business in my own little way. And such it is with Mr Giannis Makridakis from Sail Greece Yacht Charters, a good man with a good business that deserves to be rewarded for his dedication to quality yacht charters, especially in this difficult economic period!

Sail Greece Yacht Charters

I met Giannis through some friends who are also keen sailors and we got chatting about his business and the greek travel industry in general over a couple of beers down at the bar at Alimos Marina where Sail Greece Yachts is based. Giannis and his partner Vassilis started Sail Greece Yachts almost 15 years ago and have been involved in the greek yacht charter business through thick and thin ever since.

They own all their own yachts (11 in total and a mixture of Bavarias, Jeanneaus, Oceanis’, Sun Odysseys and one Cyclades 50.5) which means you charter the boat directly from them with no middle man and no markup.

As Gianni typically says ‘I am not interested in high volume, impersonal charters. I spend time with each charter group that comes to us both before and after their charter to learn a bit about them, where they come from, what they liked or disliked about Greece and what they expected and experienced during their sailing holiday in Greece’.

Sailing holidays in Greece the way they should be!

Both Gianni and Vassili are firm believers that the best way to provide your service is to think like a customer and they are clear that they are more interested in making friends that enjoy sailing in Greece than simply sending as many yacht charters as possible out of the marina.

This philosophy is awarded by the fact that many of their customers are return customers that come back time after time to enjoy the sailing in Greece which Gianni believes is some of the best sailing in the world. Now he and I might be a bit biased, but I think I would back him on this statement!

So, if you are a sailor after a bareboat charter, or a group of friends looking for a skippered sailing holiday in Greece, visit Gianni’s site at www.sailgreeceyachts.com for good value yacht charters in the greek islands! Mention that travelsingreece sent you, Gianni will be happy to hear it!

Happy sailing!