Ferry tickets to Tzia are a bit of a crap shoot. You can book the outbound tickets by telephone, but you need to be there an hour in advance to collect them, otherwise they get sold on. Return tickets are only available from the island, apparently to ensure that people booking the places are actually on Tzia and the places will be used. The ferries running the Lavrio – Tzia route are small, so this is probably not a bad thing. If you are only going for the weekend this means best to be booking your return trip immediately upon arrival in the port.

Word has it that a new larger ferry is being built to service the route, but this won’t be ready until 2009 at the earliest, and in the meantime rumour has it that one of the three ferries currently running will be decommissioned! So, book early if you want to head out there on a Friday along with the rest of the Athens crowd, mid week shouldn’t be a problem even in the middle of summer let alone the off season.

Arriving in Tzia

As always, we head away from the port of Korissia and up to the main village of Ioulida. We have had a number of pleasant stays in Ioulida over the years, but this is the first one with the baby. Let me tell you, if you have a baby that you need to carry… don’t stay in Ioulida! My knees are cracking like dry twigs, my back is aching, if anyone asks me now, I would say find some rooms closer to the sea and on flatter ground. Ioulida is great, no cars, fantastic view, but man those stairs.

The Lion of Tzia (Kea Lion)

What better thing to do bright and early on a Saturday morning than to take a stroll out to the famous lion of Tzia. I admit to actually never having gone to see it in person before, but it is the end of May, the weather is good and Ioulida is still almost deserted so off we go.

The Lion is reached by following the sign from the main square or asking directions (everybody know where it is). The narrow street takes you winding through the houses of Ioulida, past a café or two (still yet to open at this early time of the year) and suddenly without realising it you have left the houses behind and you are on an ancient stone paved track wandering through the blooms of the greek countryside in spring. The path itself leads you past a couple of churches, a refreshing spring and after about 15 minutes you see the lion below you across a small ravine.

I have to admit to being slightly perplexed by the Lion of Tzia. It is a great chunk of rock, carved to look more or less like a lion, but with a slightly cheesy grin reminding of a mix between the Mona Lisa and the cowardly Lion from the Wizard of Oz. Word has it that the sculpture dates to about 600 BC, but it sure doesn’t look like anything else you are likely to see from that period in Greece. Experts believe it is a tribute to the closeness the locals felt to nature and represents their animistic inclinations, I have yet to see a Lion elsewhere in Greece let alone on an island, but maybe things were different two and a half thousand years ago.

Regardless of the Lion’s origins or history, the walk out to see it is a great experience at this time of year. The sun is hot but not yet scalding, the flowers and trees are in full bloom and the birds are in song. On the way out we didn’t see a soul, and on the way back in passed only a couple of older residents with their donkey heading for the nearby church. If you would like to see Tzia without the crowds, May is definitely a good time to do it.

Day trip to Otzia

After our walk and a quick coffee to liven us up it is time for a trip to check out the nearby beaches of Gialiskari, Voukari and Otzia. These three beaches on the road heading north from Korissia are heaving in the summertime being both easy to get to and nicely protected from wind by their encompassing bays. Even at this early point in the season all three were busy enough with many out to enjoy their first swim of the year.

Gialiskari Beach

Gialiskari is a small beach with a lovely backing of tamarisk and eucalyptus trees giving dappled shade from the sun. The beach itself is sandy and has a number of man-made stands (read four poles and a thatch like roof) offering further shade closer to the sea. Unfortunately it is also home to a small beach café / bar on its southern edge which was pumping out some sort of beat even at this early point of the year. It had a bit of life around it, so obviously some were enjoying themselves, but not for us, so we continue on to Voukouri.

Voukouri Marina and Beach

Voukouri houses the main marina of Tzia, and the village itself has a definite marina feel to it. It is also the home of many of the island’s fishing boats and if you are looking for a feast of freshly caught fish this is the place to be. The road leading through the town is sandwiched between the sea and a host of small cafes, bars and tavernas which seem populated mainly by the sailing crowd. Shorts, shirts and deck shoes were de rigor wear with small groups of friends lounging around and discussing, well, sailing stuff. The beach is just a past the marina inside a lovely bay. It too is backed by Tamarisks and was pretty busy (no bar though!) but all the sailing folk had us spooked so we decided to head on for Otzia.

Otzia Beach

Otzia also has a lovely beach, sandy, Tamarisks, nicely protected inside its bay (are we seeing a pattern here?). It too is busy enough for the time of year, but the road that follows on to Kastrianis Bay is not fully paved and a hot bumpy ride with the kids is not what we are after. We camp out under a shady pergola, the adventurous jump in for a (not so chilly) swim and the kids have fun building a sand castle or two and splashing in the shallows.

The beach has a taverna behind it offering a decent enough fare, although I can’t say I was raving about it. Prices were pretty steep (read Athens like), but then, Tzia is bordering on being a suburb of Athens in this respect, so don’t expect to eat cheaply.

Back to Ioulida via Agia Irini

Stuffed with food and wine we wind our way back home making a quick trip out to see the ancient ruins at Agia Irini. They appear closed, but those interested in seeing the most impressive finds are urged to go to the main Museum in Ioulida, it is well set up and the finds are truly beautiful.

Carnival season in Greece (Apokries) takes place in the weeks preceding the 40 day fast leading up to Easter. What this means in practice is usually the last two weeks of February but some years might include the first week of March (see below for Carnival dates for 2009-2010). Like most festivities the carnival season in Greece involves a lot of eating, drinking, dancing and generally making merry.

The second Thursday before the beginning of Lent is called Tsikno Pempti (Smoke Thursday), a day when every taverna in the entire country is packed to the roof. For the purists Smoke Thursday is the last day of eating meat until the end of Lent, for the rest of us it is a great excuse to stuff ourselves full of lamb chops and drink to excess. Whichever side you fall on, a good time is had by all.

The celebrations come to a head in the last week (and particularly the last weekend) before the beginning of Lent with Kathari Deutera (Clean or Ash Monday) marking the beginning of the eastern Orthodox period of Lent. Ash Monday is a public holiday in Greece and is marked by meat free feasts and the widespread flying of kites throughout the country.

The two week carnival period is a great time to be in Greece, and particularly in Athens where the downtown area is alive with costumed revelers and part goers until late every night. If you are looking for something completely different however, book yourself a trip out to the island of Skyros for the last weekend of the carnival and get ready for some real fun!

Getting to Skyros

Getting to Skyros is half the fun since the only way to get there at this time of the year is via the port of Kimi (about two and a half hours by car/bus from Athens on the western coast of Evia). The drive is pleasant enough; be sure to leave yourself a bit of extra time to enjoy it if going by car since you need to pass through some windy mountain roads in the middle of the journey. Buses to Kimi leave regularly from the main KTEL bus station in central Athens. Once in Kimi you are only a 2 hour ferry trip from Skyros and will soon be enjoying eating, drinking and dancing with the rest of the party goers… often the party will have already started on the ferry!

Carnival in Skyros

In all honesty I had no idea what to expect arriving in Skyros. I knew nothing about the specifics of carnival time in Skyros and would have remained unaware if not for a friend who had arranged for her child’s baptism to be held there and to invite a good sized group of friends to attend and, of course, to stay for the rest of the weekend to enjoy the party!
As the ferry pulled into the port I soon realised that something different was in the cards since our first sight was a group of strangely dressed figures kitted out with belts made from large bells dancing around and making an almighty racket in the light of sputtering red flares. Hmm, interesting! By the time we had disembarked the shadowy figures had disappeared and we set off on the short trip up from the port to the main town (hora) where the bulk of the festivities take place.

The Skyros festival is hardly a secret to the Athenians, meaning that the island is packed with them for this particular weekend. Usually a Greek island packed with Athenians means a less than fulfilling break, the festival in Skyros was a happy exception however with the throngs of party goers all celebrating in perfect harmony with their environment and each other! Foreign tourists were very rare on the ground and those there were quickly incorporated by groups of revelers curious to learn where they were from and how they managed to find out about the festivities on Skyros.

Skyros Carnival Traditions

During the beginning of the carnival period and on every weekend leading up to Clean Monday the streets of Skyros are alive with the sounds of clanging goat bells, worn around the waists of the island men who take part. They play the role of the ‘geros’ or old man a figure dressed in a hooded black cape, and white woven trousers. The geros carries a traditional walking stick in addition to the bells around his waist and his face is covered by a hanging goat skin. These men run through the streets of the town pausing occasionally to dance in place and generally make as much noise as possible.

The geroi usually travel individually or in small groups of two or three and are accompanied by an island girl, the ‘korela’. The korela’s face is also covered by a cloth, but she is dressed in white in contrast to the black clad geros. Her job is to clear the way for the geros to pass more easily through the tight reveler packed streets and to sing to him when he tires and rests.

The sight and sound of the geros and the korela moving through the streets of Skyros is great fun. The men (and even young boys) haul their belts, which may weigh up to 50 kilograms, around the hilly streets of the town until well into the night. When you see a few of them resting themselves in some hidden corner of a side street you really feel for them, such hard work while the rest of us are busy drinking and laughing!

Come 1am all but the most dedicated of the geroi have stopped for the night, but the party continues with every bar and café in the town packed to overflowing with the majority of the people taking their drinks out into the streets. As the night winds on those that are interested may find traditional Skyrian music at some establishments and if you are lucky an impromptu performance of the local dancing will take place. I am told that Skyrian dance steps are some of the most complex in Greece. Suffice to say that as soon as a group of Skyrian girls started dancing at the place we were at, all the Athenians sat down!

Ash Monday on Skyros

Ash Monday sees another Skyros carnival tradition take place once the clanging bell from the last geros has silenced. The ‘trata’ sees the island’s fisherman gather in the main square to tell tales in a lovely rhyming fashion. The tales often centre around contemporary Greek life and politics and can be quite bold and bring big laughs from the crowds gathered around to listen.

The day also includes a parade for the costumed children which involves a large amount of squealing and giggling kids along with a donkey or two and continues with a more official presentation of the island’s traditional dances in the main square.

Skyros in February, why not!

The Greek islands in February might sound a bit of an odd choice, and maybe it is! But if you are around at that time and want to see a bit of ‘real’ Greece, head out to Skyros for the Carnival and enjoy. For carnival dates for 2010 and beyond check here, and for more general information on Skyros have a look at Greek Island Postcards.

The official bus guide highlights 3 suggested walks as well as all the points of interest throughout the route. A good place to find the guide would be the GNTO information office at 136 Tsimiski Str. (Behind the YMCA building and next to the TIMES café-bar).

Thessaloniki Cultural Route Bus Stops and Sights

The bus makes 16 official stops from which you can explore 43 points of interest.

The official stops are:

1. WHITE TOWER
2. MUSEUMS
3. PALACE OF GALERIUS – ESPEROS
4. CHURCH OF AGIA SOFIA
5. ARISTOTELOUS SQUARE
6. TOWN HALL
7. DIIKITIRIO
8. AGIOS DIMITRIOS
9. KOULE KAFE
10. TAXIARCHON
11. UPPER CITY – KELADIS
12. TRIGONIO TOWER – AG. ANARGYRI
13. VLATADON MONASTERY – PLATANOS
14. PASHA GARDENS – AGIOS PAVLOS
15. EASTERN WALLS – HOSPITAL
16. ROTONDA – UNIVERSITY

The 43 points of interest that you can visit are:

1. White Tower
2. Society of Macedonian Studies
3. Archaeological Museum
4. Museum of Byzantine Culture
5. Thessaloniki Christian Youth Brotherhood (YMCA)
6. HELEXPO & Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art
7. Ippodromiou Square
8. Navarinou Square
9. Church of Agia Sofia
10. Museum of The Macedonian Struggle
11. Aristotelous Square
12. Ladadika
13. Port – Warehouses – Cinema Museum – Thessaloniki Museum of Photography
14. Modiano Market – Louloudadika
15. Skepasti Agora (Bezesteni)
16. Alkazar
17. Church of Panagia Halkeon
18. Diikitirio – Diikitiriou Square
19. Ancient Agora
20. Ancient Baths – Bei Hamam
21. Tsinari
22. Church if Agios Dimitrios (and catacomb)
23. Aigli – Geni Hamam
24. Alatza Imaret
25. Church of Panagia Lagoudianis
26. Koule Kafe
27. Church of Profiti Ilia
28. Church of Osios David
29. Church of Taxiarches
30. Old City
31. Byzantine Walls
32. Trigonio Tower
33. Eptapyrgio
34. Vlatadon Monastery
35. Pasha Gardens
36. Eastern Walls
37. Church of Agios Nikolaos Orfanos
38. University – School of Philosophy
39. Rotonda
40. Arch of Galerius
41. Church of Agios Panteleimo
42. Church of Panagia Dexia
43. Fountain

Bus No. 50 Tickets & Timetable

The price of the ticket is 2 euros (1 euro concessions). The ticket is valid for 24 hours and during this period it can also be used on unlimited trips within all OASTH routes. When the ticket is bought from an OASTH ticket office it has to be validated on the Cultural Route Bus. When ticket is issued on the bus, further validation is not necessary. When using other normal routes validation is not necessary until your last trip before the end of the 24 hours. Other travel and unlimited journey cards are not valid on this route.

Thessaloniki’s Cultural Route Bus, not just for tourists!

Walking the town has always been a favourite pastime for locals and visitors alike, but this bus makes it easier to reach the northern city areas which are a considerable hike uphill and to see more sites in a shorter time. Bus No 50, although it is painted a pretty light blue, is not a tourist designated bus, so be prepared to mingle with the locals!

Thessaloniki Bus No. 50 Map – click here for a printable pdf version.

• Leukada’s eastern coast
• Inland Leukada
• The West Coast of Leukada
• Leukada Tips

Getting to Leukada

Getting to Leukada is a relatively pain free four and a half hour’s drive from Athens going via Patra, the Rio – Anti-Rio Bridge, up through Amfilohia and then over into Leukas Town via the above mentioned bridge. With the opening of the new Egnatia Odos, Thessaloniki is even closer, and lots of tourists fly in via the airport in Preveza, about a 40 minute drive from Leukas Town. However you get there, having a car is really essential if you want to get a true idea of what Leukada has to offer.

Walking in Leukas Town

Leukas town is a nice enough place to wander around for a couple of hours or even a couple of days. Highlights include the small archeological museum housed in the new city hall which holds finds all the way from the Neolithic to the Ancient Hellenic periods from various sites around Leukada.

The town also has many churches, mainly established in the 17th and 18th centuries. Keep an eye out for the church bells suspended from iron towers, built to withstand the frequent earthquakes that shake the island. Many of Leukas Town’s houses also display a unique deferral to earthquakes with the ground floors being built of stone and the upper floors being made of much lighter wood and sheet metal constructions, often painted in bright colours.

Leukada’s eastern coast

Leukada’s eastern coast is a cosmopolitan kind of place with a couple of good sized marinas that pull in the European yachting crowd all year round. The towns of Nikiana and Nydri are bustling places full of restaurants and bars with the expected crush of tourists in the summer months. The beaches are nowhere near as good as those on the west coast, but they seem to keep the package crowds happy enough. It is from Nydri that boats may be taken to tour the smaller Prince islands opposite Leukada which include Sparti, Heloni, Madouri, Skorpidi, Skorpios and Meganisi.

While Nydri is not my kind of place, too busy and too commercial, the view of the islands and the Agia Kyriaki peninsula is pleasant enough for a coffee on your way further south.Driving down the east coast offers a number of short diversions on your way south. First up might be the ruins of ancient houses just outside Leukas Town, follow the brown and yellow signs to the left of the main road, you will probably be the only one there.

Once in Nidri other signs will point you right and 3kms out of town you will park to make the 400 metre walk to the Dimossari waterfall. The gorge itself is interesting enough, although the waterfall is not really all that, and swimming in the frigid pool underneath it with a bunch of other strangers doesn’t really tickle my fancy much. South of Nydri are more archeological sites including tombs and buildings dating to the pre Hellenic period. Many of the finds from these sites are now on display at the Museum in Leukas Town.

Leaving Nidri behind we take the road for Vassiliki, another town on the far south coast that is popular with package tourists and is known for good wind surfing in its sheltered bay. Smaller roads lead down to other beaches including one at Poros and the more secluded Ammouso, Afteli and Kastri beaches. Any of the south coast beaches are a good bet when the wind is up, all of them are in protected south facing bays which keep the sea calm. If you fancy another coffee, Sivota has a pleasant seaside with a number of cafes and tavernas.

Inland Leukada

Leukada has some surprisingly fertile valleys in its mountainous inner region and the area is well known for its good hiking opportunities with a number of small churches and ruined monasteries to visit. Our trip started in Nikiana and then headed up the windy mountain that leads to Kolivata and Alexandros. The corners are sharp, so take it easy, but you are offered fantastic views of the channel and the smaller islands off Leukada’s east coast.

Stops along the way included the small Hermitage of the Holy Fathers, a small cave like space underneath what seems to be a recently defunct nunnery. Apparently the three holy fathers came to Leukada shortly after the First Ecumenical Council of Nikaia in 325 AD and are now buried here.

Next up was the church of Agios Georgios just above the town of Kolivata. There is also the similarly named Agios Georgios Monastery a short walk up a roughly paved mountain path which we had the pleasure to visit on a herb walk organised by our friend Brigitte Roth. The monastery is long abandoned and in ruins with a small church still maintained inside its walls.

Our return trip took us down to Perigiali and past another ruined monastery, that of Evangelistria or the Kokkini Ekklisia (Red Church), named for the red clay used to build the original church in the mid 1500’s. The Monastery is in ruins and a good chunk of the main wall is being held up by a wooden supports with signs telling of a reconstruction project with amounts in Drachmas(!). I’m not sure how long those walls are going to hold up, better get there while you still can.

The West Coast of Leukada

Leukada is probably most well known for its stunning west coach beaches which are long, mainly covered with small pebbles and feature beautiful turquoise waters that are unique to the Ionian islands. Driving from Agios Nikitas to the lighthouse at the far southern tip of the island is a nice day trip which takes you past all of Leukada’s famous beaches including Kathisma, Kalamitsi, Gialou, Egremni and Porto Katsiki. All of these beaches are ‘organised’ meaning they are stuffed full of loungers, umbrellas and cafes. Egremni with its 300 steps down to the beach and Porto Katsiki with steep picturesque cliffs pushing it into the sea are considered some of the world’s best.

Kathisma Beach

Travelling with baby meant we didn’t feel like climbing steps, so our first stop is the easily accessible Kathisma Beach about 5 kms south of Agios Nikitas. The beach is backed by a number of well developed café/bar type places and an tavern at the far southern end. I would imagine that in July and August Kathisma beach might be a bit unbearable. In mid September, even though the umbrellas are still out, there is literally hardly anyone around. The beach is about 2 kilometers long and we shared it with about 50 others on a Saturday morning when we figured there would be a few locals come for a swim. We tried the tavern that night after watching the sunset, it was ok, a bit pricey, but with a nice sea view.

Gialou Beach

After popping through the mountain village of Athani we headed to a Gialou beach, less umbrellas and less people. The beach has a number of shack type places offering coffees, beers and sandwiches which are all shut. One of them seemed to be opening as we left. The beach is again about 2 km long and there is all of 15 people on it, heavenly. The waves were a bit up and we have heard that if the winds and waves really pick up to be very careful. The beaches on the west coast can be wild and the undertow can be strong, no matter how good a swimmer you are, be careful, and always keep your things a good way up the beach, big waves can come out of nowhere and snatch your shoes, towels and baby toys in a flash.

The Lighthouse

Following the road further south takes you to a fork, going right takes you to the famous Porto Katsiki, left takes you all the way down to the lighthouse at the islands southern tip. We choose left, but not without stopping for a quick coffee in the café at the side of the road. It sits literally on top of the cliff with a stunning, vertigo inducing view of Egremni Beach from way way up.

The trip down to the lighthouse is pleasant, with the terrain getting steadily more rocky and wild as you go further south. The lighthouse offers lovely views south to Kefalonia and has some sad looking ancient stones that were part of an ancient temple. The lighthouse itself looks like its slowly falling apart, although it is still fully functional.

Agios Nikolaos Monastery and the dirt road to Vassiliki

Deciding to take the adventurous route back we stop to quickly visit the Agios Nikolaos Monastery, built in the 17th century although the current building are more recent and it is very definitely locked after a number of items were stolen from the church (by a local who was apparently nabbed sometime later while trying to transport or flog them. Across the clearing from the Monastery gates are a bunch of square stone cubicles, apparently ancient beehives.

Back on the paved road and heading north, another dirt road leads off to the right and it looks like it cuts along the mountain and will save you a good 30 minute trip back up and around to reach Vassiliki. We tried it in our trusty Hyundai Getz and had no problems. The road looks like it has had gravel recently laid in some sections and is on the whole in good shape except for a couple of tight squeezes along high cliffs if you happen to meet someone coming in the opposite direction. Arriving in Vassiliki needs celebration with another coffee to prepare for the drive back to Agios Nikita which will take the best part of an hour.

Leukada Tips

• Do go in September
• Do rent a car and explore.
• If you like walking and want to learn a bit about native herbs and plants phone or email our friend Brigitte Roth and take one of her Leukada Herb Walks (in german).
• If you want a recommendation for a place to stay, Elenaki Apartments above Agios Nikitas offer good value and are in a lovely peaceful olive grove with open verandas ideal for small children and small groups. Aggelos will be sure to give you the 15 minute rundown on what to do during your stay if you ask.

Until November 1st 2009
The Benaki Museum – Pireos Street Annex
www.benaki.gr/

Until October 4th 2009
Macedonian Museum of Modern Art
www.mmca.org.gr

Surviving the Greek Driving Experience

That being said, driving on Greek roads is not always for the faint hearted, and Greece continues to have the highest number of road fatalities per capita in countries of the ‘original’ European Union. Regardless of this, a car remains the best way to see much of what the greek countryside has to offer, and with a bit of preparation and patience a relatively stress free greek driving experience is possible.

Greek Driving Habits

Ok, let’s get the bad news out of the way. A larger than normal percentage of greek drivers are selfish, aggressive and really have absolutely no idea of what being a good responsible driver is all about. While the majority of this group is usually young and male, this odd behavior can span the generations and cross gender lines. Particularly bad habits which every visitor to Greece should be aware of include excessive speeding, minimal or no signaling for turns, very aggressive (reckless really) overtaking and a general distain for traffic regulations and for other drivers. These bad habits may be observed in both city and highway/motorway driving, but each environment has its own issues you should be aware of.

Driving in Greek Cities

City driving in Greece, especially in Athens or Thessaloniki, can be a pretty harrowing experience for those not used to it. Roads are often narrow, cars are parked everywhere, potholes are huge, signage is incomplete or simply wrong, motorcycles and other cars speed around like there is no tomorrow and nobody signals when they want to change lanes or even when they are actually planning on turning off the road for that matter.

To be honest, city driving is most times best left to a bus or taxi driver. There is simply no need to put yourself through the hassle of trying to avoid the various obstacles you will encounter while at the same time trying to follow the often misleading signs that are directing you (maybe) to where you want to go.

If you do need to drive in the city for whatever reason, keep the following things in mind:

• Another driver flashing their lights at you can mean one of two things. It could mean they are offering to let you go first… or it could mean, I am coming, get out of the way! Now, it can be a bit difficult to determine which of the two meanings the other driver is intending to communicate, so be careful!
• Many greek drivers run seriously red lights, it is a bit of a tradition. So it is best to have a quick look for a very late speeder before crossing a freshly green light at an intersection, especially late at night.
• Pedestrian Tip 1: Unlike most countries, if you are crossing a road on a green light, and a car is turning across your path on a flashing orange light, the car thinks it has the right of way and will rarely stop. If you are in a car, please feel free to support pedestrians by stopping and allowing them to pass, but expect a volley of abuse from the less enlightened drivers behind you.
• Pedestrian Tip #2: In the run up to the Olympic Games, Athens sprouted a number of the zebra pedestrian crosswalks. Don’t be fooled, these are only to be used when there are no cars around as they are completely ignored by drivers. And to all drivers, in this particular case you might be best advised to not follow your heart and stop for the pedestrians on a busy road, in this case it is too much of an accident risk, and hardly helps the pedestrians when one lane has stopped and the other one or two continues on at 80 km/h!

Driving on Greek Highways and Motorways

Highway driving between most major greek cities has become a lot better in the last 10 years with the opening of major new European grade motorways between Athens and Corinth, most of the Athens to Thessaloniki route and the recent opening of the Egnatia Odos which spans all of northern Greece. These motorways, all of which require tolls to be paid, are usually either 2 or 3 lane highways with an extra emergency lane on either side.

Slower drivers are advised to stay on the right, although the middle lane is often a good choice to avoid trucks, busses and other slow moving traffic. The speed limit is 120 km/h, you can safely go to 130 km/h if the road conditions allow it without causing yourself or others any worries.

Notice that we have said MOST major cities? There are some well known highways in Greece that are certainly not European grade. This famously includes large stretches of the Corinth to Patras motorway and the Patras – Pirgos – Kalamata highway. These highways are what people are referring to when they talk about the terrible greek motorways they have travelled on.

When we say they are not European grade, what exactly do we mean. Well, they are one lane in either direction, with an emergency lane on either side. What this means in practice is that they are one lane in each direction (half of the emergency lane and half of the normal lane) and another lane in the middle that is used by both sides to overtake. Does that sound dangerous? It is.

This is where the many fatal road accidents occur in Greece. And they are usually down to either excessive speed, overtaking on a corner or simply not judging the distance between you and the car in front of you that is overtaking in the opposite direction. Head on collisions are more common that they should be, and while it is fair enough to blame the state of the roads, drivers need to take responsibility for their own actions, a fact that many drivers seem to forget.

If you are driving on greek motorways and highways keep the following things in mind:

• When not overtaking, keep your vehicle to the right as all other drivers will be doing. Many basically use the emergency lane as a full lane, but this does not leave much room for… emergencies! I prefer to straddle the white line dividing the main lane with the emergency lane which gives some room for evasive action on both your left and your right.
• If you need to pass a truck or other slow moving vehicle, wait until the coast is clear, signal so that those in the opposite lane are aware of what you are doing, and pass the vehicle as quickly as possible. Do not pass slow vehicles on curves or on solid white lines!
• If you are not sure if you can pass a vehicle or not, and you have 1,2,5,10 cars lined up behind and furiously flashing their lights, just slow down, pull over to the right at a safe distance from the vehicle in front of you and let them pass. Having idiots tailgating and flashing their lights at you at 120km/h with a huge articulated lorry in front of you which you are trying to pass is the most stressful thing I have ever experienced on Greek roads. If you are not up for a holiday full of stress and anger, just let them go and take an extra half an hour to get to wherever you are going.

Driving on Greek secondary roads

Finally we come to driving on secondary roads in Greece. Secondary roads can cover anything from something similar to the above mentioned 2 lane highways all the way down to small twisty mountain roads. For secondary roads similar to 2 lane highways, the same precautions as above apply. For smaller secondary roads, speed is almost always going to be what gets you in trouble and if you drive at appropriate speeds you will not have many problems. Keep in mind that:

• Greek is a mountainous country, and mountain roads are twisty! Be careful of hairpin turns, especially in the dark, sometimes clear signage indicating sharp turns is not available.
• In and around villages (which is everywhere off the main roads really) be aware of people and/or livestock on the roads and be courteous.
• If a crazy driver passes you almost running you off the road, ignore them. It is (some) locals who drive like this, and they will not take kindly having tourists tell them how to drive on THEIR roads.

There you have it, driving in Greece in a nutshell. It seems scary, and the truth is that sometimes it is scary, but having your own vehicle to explore the villages and out of the way places of wherever it is your are visiting in Greece is really the way to go if you want to get off the beaten track. Just keep our tips in mind, drive safely and courteously and try to avoid the cities where possible!

The line (officially the number 400 Athens public bus) starts and ends at the Athens Archaeological Museum on Vas. Irakleiou Street (to the left of the museum as you look at the entrance). The route has 20 official stops which include all the major sites of central Athens, several of the most important museums and of course shopping areas for those must have gifts to take back home with you. The complete list of the stops is:

1. NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
2. OMONIA
3. PSYRRI
4. KERAMEIKOS
5. THISSIO
6. MONASTIRAKI
7. MARKET (VARVAKEIOS AGORA)
8. KLAFTHMONOS SQUARE
9. SYNTAGMA
10. BENAKI MUSEUM
11. NATIONAL GALLERY
12. AMPELOKIPI
13. NATIONAL GALLERY
14. PANATHINAIKON STADIUM
15. PLAKA
16. AKROPOLI
17. OLYMPIC ZEUS TEMPLE
18. GREEK PARLIAMENT (VOULI TON ELLINON
19. UNIVERSITY (PANEPISTIMIO)
20. OMONIA

Athens sightseeing bus schedule

The sightseeing bus runs throughout the year with the following schedule, a round trip takes approximately 80-90 minutes.

Athens sightseeing by public bus, good for locals too!

The truth is that we have used this bus more than once to show visiting friends around town without the hassle of parking the car or popping in and out of metro stations all day. For 5 euros the deal really can’t be beat. Be forewarned though, this bus is a normal everyday city bus, not red, not a double decker, not anything like the famous hop-on hop-off buses doing the rounds of central London. What you get here is a cheap affordable way to get to most of the main sites of central Athens in one easy(ish) to do trip. For those interested in it, the Athens sightseeing bus company (or something like that) has imported a few of those lovely red double deckers, they do more or less the same route, and it will only set you back 18 euros for the 90 minutes it takes to complete. Bit too steep for my liking, but to each their own.

Athens Sightseeing Bus Map – click here for a printable pdf version.

The chance to cool off in the open, a frosty beer in front of you, free to light up a cigarette if you so choose (and the Greeks surely do choose), truly a great Athenian summertime tradition. Find the cinema nearest you from the list below, call to find out what is playing (some specialise in classics, last year’s hits etc while other show the latest blockbusters), and go do as the Athenians do, you won’t be disappointed!

OK, you’ve found the Mercouri Estate on the Peloponnese, Western Greece. Congratulations! Now what?

Well you’ve arrived at the second oldest estate in Greece, with a history stretching back almost one and a half centuries. In the olden days the estate was well known for the production of Corinthian currants as well as for the cultivation of the vine and the olive tree. Today, pressed currants go into one of our dessert wines, while we still produce olive oil and high quality wines.

But there is more to the Mercouri Estate than the products. There is the location – sitting on the plateau of the Icthis peninsula where wine has been produced for thousands of years. There are the buildings – the original family residence that looks straight from a film set, the small private church which is really only big enough for the priest and his beard, the old stable block that now houses a collection of artifacts from the estate and the surrounding region, and finally the main facility itself where the wine is made and aged, the bottles are filled and the labels added. Oh and did I mention our mega-store? No? That’s because we don’t have one. You are able to sample our products and if you like what you’ve tasted, you can buy wines and olive oil at special prices. Last and not least are the animals – more peacocks than you can shake a stick at, some St Bernard dogs (including the resident star, Lara), cats and kittens, geese, tortoises and a goat.

There’s lots more here, so the best way to check that I am not lying is to come and visit for yourself. We’re located at 37.6767 N, 21.3095 E, or for those who are technologically challenged, we’re 32km from Ancient Olympia, on the outskirts of the village of Korakochori. We’re open 6 days a week (Mon-Sat) – 7 days if you are really rich and we think you’ll buy lots of wine (only kidding) – from 9am until about 3pm (hey, it’s Greece, approximate is where it’s at).

The highlights as far as the wines are concerned? Well that all depends on what you like – but by common consent from the reds, the Domaine Mercouri Cava is excellent and well worth shelling out on, and from the whites, the Foloi is a light, crisp dry wine that is bursting with character. In total there are 8 dry wines produced – 3 reds, 4 whites and 1 rosé. If you like what the Aussies call “stickies” then there are two dessert wines that are worth investigating in a moment of indulgence. And as a last-minute gift for that favourite Auntie, the extra virgin olive oil comes in handy little 500ml bottles.

What else do you need to know? Katakolon (2km away) has restaurants and accommodation. Levendohori (2km away) has some nice tavernas and Olympia has more to offer than just the ruins and the archaeological museum.

Contact details:

tel: 0030 26210 41601, www.mercouri.gr, mercouri@otenet.gr